Filming various sources

[manny000]

Hey there new to this. Hoping that you guys can help me out I am going to try to film a television and a projected image at the same time. I really want to have both in the same shot but not to sure of how to eliminate flicker for both. I read the messages for the 9fps to eliminate the roll from the television and I figured that this would be the most dificult aspect of the shoot but what would it be if I had to compensate for both of these factors and still get the desired pleasurable viewing effect. Of course this being no flicker or roll from either visual source. What I have to work with.
1.Nizo 800 (fully functional)
2.chinon s8 projector with 18 or 24fps also it has a knob which speeds up or slows down don't know exactly how much but I do know that when I transfer anything to video with my little transfer box I rotate the knob all the way and it eliminates all flicker that I can tell.
3.T.V., I put this because there is another factor to consider that I am not sure if it is a factor or not I am going to have a film that I have transfered from film to video playing on the t.v.. I don't know if this requires any more compensation.

Any suggestions are appreciated.

Manny

------------------

[Alex]

I don't know if the projected image has any hope of coming out.

The image on the TV however, since it will be a film transferred to video, just transfer the film at between 6 to 9 frames per second onto video, so when you reshoot it at 6-9 frames per second, the result is close to real time.

I filmed off of a projected image once, don't remember the particulars too much, however, I remember the film having a pulsing effect to it.

I actually got more of an image than I thought I would.

I wonder if you would be better off keeping the film you project at 24 fps, but still shoot it a 9 fps, the double exposing per frame may minimize the flicker.

The image you will be projecting in your composite live shot may need to be originally shot in slow motion to help make it look more like the normal speed since the camera is undercranked for the final shot.

Shoot at 54 fps, Project at 24 FPS when refilming your scene at 9fps.

Transfer the super-8 footage be shown on the TV for your final composite at between 6-9 FPS per second so that you will be re-filming it at the same 6-9 frames per second.

If you have actors in this shot, they will need to slow down their motions.




------------------
Alex

[Nigel]

I feel that people have come to terms with the "Flicker"--I don't think that it is as jarring to your viewers as you might suspect. I would just roll with it--No Pun Intended. Good Luck

------------------

[#Pedro]

i don?t would complicate things more than neccessary. when a tv screen is appearing in a film scene, and can be identified as a tv screen, a certain amount of flicker is acceptable. In commercial production you can notice the same thing.

I recently included a shot of a projected image in a szene and it worked very well. I set the projector at 24 fps and the camera, too. As I have a Beaulieu, I can control flicker when running it without film. I was planing to adjust the projector speed until the flicker disappears in the viewfinder. But it was not neccessary. The Elmo was running exactly at the same speed in it?s fixed position as my camera, no flicker.

The TV screen can only be captured without flicker when shooting at 25 fps (PAL). With 24 fps,there is a small amount of flicker, but acceptable.

When using a 25 fps camera (crystal Beaulieu or Nizo prof), you could adjust the projector to that framerate and capture both screens without flicker.

Pedro

------------------